10 Things I Do Before Storing an RV for Winter

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Published April 17, 2020 | Last updated September 1, 2026

Winter storage is one of those RV jobs where a generic checklist can get you into trouble.

What I do with our Class A today is not exactly what I did with our old Class C, because the batteries, water heaters, storage setup, and even the way I protect the exterior are different.

So instead of pretending there is one perfect winter-storage routine for every RV, here are the 10 things I actually pay attention to before putting an RV away for the winter.

1. Winterize the Plumbing If the RV Will See Freezing Weather

If the RV is staying in Maryland and freezing weather is coming, I winterize the plumbing.

I use RV antifreeze because that is the method I am comfortable with and have used for years.

I do not try to turn this article into a full winterizing tutorial because different RVs can have traditional water heaters, tankless water heaters, different bypass systems, washers, ice makers, outside showers, and other plumbing that changes the process.

We have a separate guide on when you actually need to winterize an RV, and another on winterizing a tankless RV water heater.

If you want a full step-by-step walkthrough, I also like the RV Education 101 Winterizing and Storing Your RV course.

2. Handle the Batteries Based on the Battery Type

This is one area where I would not give every RVer the same advice.

Our Class A has Big Beard lithium house batteries with built-in heaters. I leave those in the RV because our solar setup keeps them charged and the battery heaters help protect them during cold weather.

The chassis battery is different. It is lead acid, so when the Class A is stored in Maryland for the winter, I remove it and keep it in my basement on a battery maintainer.

Our Class C has lead-acid batteries, so I bring those inside too and keep them maintained during the winter.

One thing I personally do not do is leave batteries connected to a trickle charger if I am leaving home for an extended winter trip.

The right storage procedure depends on whether you have flooded lead-acid, AGM, or lithium batteries, plus the charger and battery manufacturer’s instructions.

3. Fill the Fuel Tank and Add Fuel Stabilizer

For both of our motorhomes, I normally fill the fuel tank before winter storage and add fuel stabilizer.

I am not saying every engine manufacturer requires the exact same storage procedure. If your owner’s manual gives specific long-term fuel-storage instructions, follow those.

For me, a full tank plus stabilizer has been the routine I am comfortable with rather than leaving an RV sitting for months with old fuel and a mostly empty tank.

4. Remove Food and Block Rodent Entry Points

Mice can do an incredible amount of damage inside an RV, especially if they get into wiring, cabinets, insulation, or upholstery.

I remove food and anything that smells like food, then inspect around plumbing penetrations, wiring, storage bays, steps, and other openings where rodents might get in.

I would focus on sealing entry points and using traps rather than scattering poison inside the RV. Poison can create a whole new problem if a rodent dies somewhere you cannot reach it.

We also have a separate article on what actually helps keep mice out of RVs.

5. Inspect the Roof, Seams, and Exterior Before Storage

I would much rather find a cracked seal before winter than discover a leak after months of rain, snow, and freeze-thaw cycles.

I inspect the roof, corners, windows, lights, vents, and any place where something penetrates the sidewall or roof.

If something needs resealing, use a sealant that is compatible with your RV’s roof or sidewall material. I would not assume the same product belongs everywhere.

This is also a good time to clean the RV well enough that you can actually see what the seals look like.

6. Choose the Storage Location Carefully

Storage location matters more than I used to think.

I look at security, drainage, nearby trees, the parking surface, access, and how much room I have around the RV.

Even a secure storage facility is not risk-free. Someone once hit our Class A while it was parked in storage. The driver reported it to management, and they contacted us.

That is why I still check the RV periodically even when it is behind a gate.

7. Decide Carefully Before Using an RV Cover

I used to cover our Class C during winter storage.

Eventually I stopped.

Wind caused the corners of the cover to rip, and I also noticed mold. Maryland winters are not continuously frozen. We get plenty of days in the 40s, so moisture can become a problem under a cover that is not breathing or fitted well.

I have never used a cover on our Class A.

That does not mean RV covers are always bad. A high-quality, breathable, properly fitted cover may make sense depending on where you store your RV. But after my own experience, I do not consider a cover an automatic winter-storage requirement.

8. Protect the Tires and Keep the RV Properly Supported

Tires age whether the RV is moving or sitting still.

I pay attention to tire pressure, UV exposure, the surface the tires are sitting on, and whether the RV is parked level enough that one side is carrying an unusual amount of weight.

Tire covers can help reduce UV exposure if the tires sit in direct sunlight for months.

I would also avoid leaving the tires sitting in standing water or deep mud for long periods.

9. Shut Down Propane and Unneeded Systems

Before long-term storage, I shut down the systems that do not need to be operating.

On a travel trailer, that usually means closing the valves on the removable propane cylinders.

On a motorhome like our Class A, the propane tank is permanently mounted, so you use the shutoff at the ASME tank rather than looking for removable cylinders.

I also make sure appliances and water-heating systems are off before the RV sits unused.

10. Check the RV During the Winter

I do not park the RV in October and ignore it until spring.

I check for leaks, pests, battery condition, damage, low tires, storm debris, and anything else that looks different.

I also pay attention to snow accumulation on the Class A roof. If we get around 2 inches or more, I clear it off rather than letting repeated storms pile up.

That said, I would never tell someone to climb onto an icy or snow-covered RV roof just because I clear ours. Roof work in winter can be dangerous. I only do it when I can do it safely, and otherwise I would use a safer method or get help.

My Bottom Line

The biggest thing I have learned about winter RV storage is that the details depend on the RV.

Our Class A has heated lithium house batteries and solar, while the chassis battery comes inside. Our Class C has lead-acid batteries that come inside. I use fuel stabilizer in both. I used to cover the Class C but stopped because the cover ripped and I saw mold. I have never covered the Class A.

Those are real differences that a generic checklist usually misses.

Protect the plumbing from freezing, manage the batteries correctly, keep moisture and pests out, inspect the roof and seals, and keep checking the RV while it sits.

Do those things well and spring startup becomes a lot less stressful.

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Related Reading

Do You Have to Winterize an RV?

How to Winterize a Tankless RV Water Heater

Do Dryer Sheets Keep Mice Away From RVs and Campers?

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