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Published February 22, 2019 | Last updated July 22, 2026
If your RV propane is not flowing, start with the simple things—but do not treat every propane problem like a DIY repair.
We ran into this ourselves. Our propane tank was full, but the stove would not light and our other propane appliances were not working either.
In our case, I had opened the propane valve too quickly. The excess-flow safety device thought there was a major leak and restricted the propane flow.
Closing the valve, shutting off the propane appliances, waiting a few minutes, and then reopening the valve very slowly solved our problem.
That is a common fix, but it is not the only possible cause. Below are seven things to check, starting with the safest and easiest.
First: Stop If You Smell Propane
If you smell rotten eggs, hear hissing, see a damaged hose, or suspect a propane leak, do not keep troubleshooting inside the RV.
- Do not light a stove, match, cigarette, or campfire.
- Do not operate electrical switches or anything that could create a spark.
- Turn off the propane supply only if you can do so safely.
- Get everyone away from the RV.
- Call the campground office, fire department, propane supplier, or a qualified RV technician from a safe location.
A propane system is not the place to guess. The simple checks below are appropriate when there is no odor, no hissing, and no visible damage.
7 Things to Check When RV Propane Is Not Flowing
1. Make Sure the Tank Is Not Empty
This sounds obvious, but RV propane gauges are not always accurate.
If you have removable DOT cylinders, disconnecting and weighing the cylinder is one way to confirm what is actually left. The tare weight stamped on the collar tells you what the empty cylinder weighs.
If your RV has two cylinders and an automatic changeover regulator, also check which cylinder the selector is pointing toward. You may have one full cylinder and one empty cylinder, but the regulator may still be trying to draw from the empty one.
2. Make Sure the Propane Valve Is Fully Open
Propane refill attendants normally close the tank valve before filling. They may leave it closed afterward, which is exactly what they should do.
If the propane stopped working right after a refill, check the tank valve before assuming something has failed.
Once the system has pressurized normally, the valve should be opened fully. Do not intentionally operate the system with the cylinder valve left only partway open.
3. Reset the Excess-Flow Safety Device
This was the problem we had.
Propane connectors commonly include an excess-flow or flow-limiting safety device. If propane starts moving through the line too quickly, the device may interpret that sudden flow as a broken hose or major leak and restrict the supply.
Opening the tank valve too quickly can sometimes trigger it even when the system is not leaking.
How I Reset It
- Turn off the propane tank valve.
- Turn off the furnace, water heater, refrigerator propane mode, and every stove burner.
- Wait five to ten minutes for the system to equalize.
- Reopen the propane valve extremely slowly.
- After the line has pressurized, open the valve fully.
- Try lighting one stove burner.
If propane begins flowing normally again, the excess-flow device was probably the issue.
If it trips again, do not keep resetting it over and over. A recurring restriction can indicate a leak, damaged hose, incorrect connection, regulator problem, or excessive demand. Have the system inspected.
4. Check the Pigtail Hose and Cylinder Connection
On travel trailers and fifth wheels, the short hose running from each propane cylinder to the regulator is called a pigtail.
A loose fitting, damaged seal, kinked hose, or failed pigtail can prevent normal propane flow.
Inspect the hose and fitting visually. If you see cracks, abrasion, heat damage, oil contamination, a missing seal, or anything questionable, close the propane and replace the damaged component with the correct rated part.
Do not use an open flame to check for leaks. A qualified technician should perform a proper pressure and leak test if there is any doubt.
5. Check the Automatic Changeover Regulator
RVs with two removable cylinders often use an automatic changeover regulator. It draws from the selected service cylinder and switches to the reserve cylinder when the first one becomes empty.
If the selector is pointed toward an empty or disconnected cylinder, or if the regulator does not change over properly, your appliances may receive little or no propane.
Check the indicator and selector position. Do not assume an indicator alone proves the regulator is working correctly.
6. Look for Signs of a Bad Propane Regulator
An RV propane regulator reduces high cylinder pressure to the lower pressure required by the appliances. Most RV systems use a two-stage regulator, and many appliance systems are designed around approximately 11 inches of water column.
Possible regulator trouble can include:
- Weak or inconsistent flames
- Yellow or orange flames instead of mostly blue flames
- Soot around propane appliances
- Popping or roaring burner sounds
- More than one propane appliance failing at the same time
- Visible damage, corrosion, or contamination around the regulator
I would not recommend replacing a regulator just because an online article says it is probably bad. The replacement must have the proper inlet connection, outlet pressure, capacity, vent orientation, and mounting position for your RV.
If the simple valve reset does not work, have an RV or propane technician test the system pressure and regulator operation.
7. Check 12-Volt Power, the Propane Detector, and Shutoff Solenoid
Some motorhomes and older RV systems use an electrically controlled propane shutoff solenoid connected to the propane alarm or another safety circuit.
If the house battery is dead, the propane detector has lost power, a fuse is blown, or the solenoid fails, propane may not flow.
This does not apply to every RV. Check your owner’s manual or wiring diagram before assuming your propane detector controls a shutoff valve.
If your RV does have this setup, confirm that the house battery is charged, the battery disconnect is on, the propane alarm has power, and the related fuse has not blown.
What If Only One Propane Appliance Is Not Working?
If the stove works but the furnace, refrigerator, or water heater does not, the main propane supply is probably not the problem.
The problem may be specific to that appliance, such as:
- A closed appliance shutoff valve
- Air in the branch line
- A dirty burner or blocked orifice
- A failed igniter, control board, thermostat, or sail switch
- Low 12-volt power to the appliance
At that point, troubleshoot the appliance rather than replacing parts in the main propane system.
Should You Add a GasStop Safety Valve?
We do not personally use GasStop, so I cannot give you a first-hand review. But I do think it is worth considering as an additional propane safety device.
GasStop installs at the propane cylinder and is designed to shut off the propane supply completely when it detects a sudden, catastrophic increase in flow, such as a major hose rupture.
It also includes a pressure indicator and can be used as part of a leak-check procedure.
But understand its limits. GasStop is not designed to automatically shut down every slow or progressive leak, and it does not replace a propane detector, regulator, proper leak testing, or routine inspection.
You also need the correct connection type. GasStop identifies POL models for many motorhome tank connections and ACME models for common removable cylinders used on travel trailers and fifth wheels. Confirm your connection before ordering.
When to Stop Troubleshooting and Call a Professional
Call a qualified RV or propane technician when:
- You smell propane or hear hissing.
- The excess-flow device keeps triggering.
- You see a damaged hose, regulator, fitting, or seal.
- The flames are yellow, unstable, roaring, or producing soot.
- Several appliances still receive weak or no propane after the simple reset.
- You need a regulator, valve, hose, or fixed propane line replaced.
- You are not completely sure what you are looking at.
A professional can perform a pressure-drop test, leak test, regulator test, and appliance-pressure test instead of guessing and swapping parts.
My Bottom Line
When our RV propane stopped flowing, the problem was simple: I opened the valve too fast and triggered the excess-flow safety device.
Turning everything off, waiting, and reopening the propane valve very slowly fixed it.
That is the first reset I would try when there is no propane odor, no visible damage, and every propane appliance stopped working at the same time.
But if the problem comes back, you smell gas, or the simple checks do not solve it, stop there. Propane is useful, but it deserves respect. Have the system tested instead of guessing.
Related Reading:
- How Much Propane Does an RV Water Heater Use?
- How Long Will an RV Fridge Run on Propane?
- Is It OK to Drive an RV With the Propane On?
- How Long Does an RV Propane Tank Last?
Mike Scarpignato – Bio
Mike Scarpignato founded RVBlogger.com with his wife, Susan, in 2018 to help new and experienced RVers make better decisions about buying, owning, and traveling in an RV.
Mike has decades of camping experience and has traveled extensively in both a Gulf Stream Conquest Class C and a Thor Challenger Class A motorhome. He and Susan spend much of the year on the road, attend RV shows, visit dealerships, and tour RVs across the country.
Through RVBlogger.com and the RVBlogger YouTube channel, Mike shares practical, first-hand advice about RV buying, floor plans, ownership, maintenance, gear, campgrounds, and the RV lifestyle.
hi i have problem with my propane gas refrigerator gas flows but not steady like it should ,like it gets air in the line ,i clean everything n i have no leaks.he[p on a jayco camper.
I have a jayco 32 ft 5th wh.i get propane flow on the right side,but switch to left side of trailer no flow ,saw a small reg.in line about 6 inches from tank ,could that be bad?
I have a 92 Layton. I can’t seem to get any gas to flow. I bought a new dual regulator and made sure the propane sensor is on inside. When I try to light the stove nothing happens. Any tips?
So my our propane detector/carbon monoxide detector kept beeping in my RV. So I opened it up looked inside saw the circuit board I saw a small little round deal in there that had a small Flathead in the center of it that could be adjusted one way or the other I just did it all the way clockwise at first and it didn’t do anything kept beeping and I adjusted it all the way counterclockwise shut it off and turn it back on and it beep for 2 seconds and shut off and my propane turned back on so there you go in case you can’t make it down to go get another one and you need to take a shower.
All gas devices work but furnace. Furnace will take gas occasionally. But doesn’t run long. New switch and thermostat. Still having problems lighting. Is it the board?
THANK YOU!!! My fridge is working again… *just* in time to save my groceries. After an unexpectedly challenging and looooong day, this was so crucial. Thanks again!
My Rv the stove burners are working, but the oven is not getting gas to light. The gas works on all other appliances fine. It’s only the oven not getting gas. Bottles are full and I even shut them off waited. Opened them slowly in hopes that it was pressure locked. No luck on getting the oven gas.
Hmmm…sounds like you need to have a professional evaluate what is going on with your propane to the oven…But first turn on the oven and blled the air out of the line until you smell propane… then vent the area very well and then try again to light your oven…
Hope that helps!
Mike
On my Oven I have to light it with a lighter. There is also a gas valve for oven as well that needs to be turned on.
The stove top can be lit with the striker mechanism. But, the over need a match etc…
We changed the propane tank on our 2010 Heartland Edge in the middle of a late season trip from Oregon to Ohio. We had driven all day to stay ahead of fierce winds across Wyoming. A cold front would follow that we were not prepared for. What could go wrong? The furnace, hot water heater and stove top had no propane supply. We faced cold meals and no heat for the near future. We did not know where to start finding a solution. It was 9 pm and we had few options. I found rvblogger.com. Your article on solutions for problems that could occur when changing propane tanks guided us to successfully restarting the propane feed to all the appliances. You communicated clearly all that we needed to know. We are grateful you have made the effort to share your knowledge with people like us who want to experience camping but really need help understanding the basics. Thank you from the bottom of our hearts.
Propane works fine as long as the outside temperature is above 35 degrees. But if gets colder the propane stops flowing. How do we fix this problem
Hi, I have a ’90 Toyota Oddysey. trying to connect a gas canister to the propane tank I removed the cap from the propane regulator, now I put one on it and the gas does not work for me. do you think i have to replace the propane regulator?
28 Fleetwood Storm- Propane seems to flow to fridge and water heater just fine but when we try to use the split which comes AFTER the regulator, to direct connect our Blackstone grill, we get no gas. there is a lever to lower which we have lowered after connecting but still no gas,odor or anything. Is it possible there is some other valve closed or clogged? or maybe a specific hose connection that i don;t have? All fittings connect well.
I have a Jayco Acadia pop up and had use the propane for the fridge and that was about it. I then tried to hook up to the outside propane port and no luck. I’ve tried many things but I will try these steps listed and hopefully it helps.
When I disconnect my tanks should the indicator turn red. Mine doesn’t and it used to make some noises but nothing now.
Thank you SO MUCH for the information on how to reset our “propane system” as I am calling it! Followed your advice to shut it all down, wait ten minutes and then SLOWLY reopen the tank valves…worked like a charm and now all burners and frig are operating on high. I am sending you a virtual hug, thanks again!
I have a suburban 2 burner stove. i have gas past the regulator but stove will not light.
Paul
I’ve got a 2014 jayCo jayflight 32 rlds. I’m not getting propane to anything in camper . Replaced hoses and regulator and still nothing . Don’t even have propane at stove
Greetings from Spain! I have an American RV and I don’t think I have the famous excess flow valve. At the outlet of my propane tank is the opening valve of the same, then the two-stage pressure regulator and finally, the solenoid valve that I open cuts the gas flow controlled by the interior gas detector.
Can someone tell me what the excess flow valve looks like? I cannot locate it on any website and I would like to install it, unless the regulator itself also cuts the propane in the event of a collision and rupture of a propane pipe.
Greetings and thank you!!
Purchased a used RV. At first the furnace worked then would just blow cold air and stop. The previous owner noted in the manual that heating the elbow on the line entering the furnace removes condensation restricting gas flow. Sure enough that works …. temporarily… dont want to do this continually …. is there a solution?
I turned on my stove while propane tanks were off (I forgot), It turned on for a few seconds then turned off. I opened the propane tanks and my stove wont turn on anymore. The regulator is on red.
Hi,
Hope you are well.
We have a 2020 grand design, imagine series.
Only used 5 times.
Both tanks are full. Both tanks are on. Regulator still showing red (empty) both sides.
Did everything in your list.
Nothing.
Bought new regulator. Same problem!
No gas coming out. Still shows red.
What are we doing wrong?
We used the rv last month. No problems.
Again both tanks are full. We are slowing turning on. We are following instructions to a tee.
Hi Kathy,
Since it is practically new I would guess the regulator isn’t bad…You might have to disconnect the hoses to depressurize completely then reconnect and turn the propane valve on slowly. Hopefully, that will do the trick!
let me know if it works or not.
Mike
You are awesome! Appreciate the info on resetting pressure regulator!
Hi Don,
Thanks very much for the kind words!!!
I am always so happy when someone finds one of my articles helpful!
We started a new Facebook group that we are launching today called RV Camping for Newbies!
It’s a great place to ask questions and get great answers from your fellow RVers in the group!
We hope you’ll check it out!
Mike
https://www.facebook.com/groups/RVCampingforNewbies/
We have a 2019 coachman clipper. The stove was working fine and so was the furnace. Before spending our second night in the camper we were making sure we would have hot water. Stove won’t light and furnace fan comes on but doesn’t heat up and then turns off. Soooo frustrating! We tried a new propane bottle, no luck. I feel certain there is something simple that we are missing. Help please:)
Had a really bad storm that extinguished the pilot on my hot water heater. I woke up to a really strong gas odor and realized what had happened. I relit the pilot and didn’t think much about it. Later realized the hot water heater wasn’t flaming up like it should when I used hot water. I shut everything off for about 10 minutes and relit the pilot. It then flamed up like it should and everything is fine. Thanks for the info, saved me a service call.
Hi Kiley,
You made my day! Glad I could help!
Thanks,
Mike
Lots of help. I did the regular stuff. Now I have propane to my stove and oven. The only thing I use my propane for. But flame on stove Low and oven won’t come All the way on.
My guess is to change my regulator.
Am I right??
Please help if you can. I have no one else to ask. I’m a 62 yrs old woman and I live in small old fifth wheel
Thank you
Deb S
Can half of a dual regulator go bad? Right side acts like tank is empty. Left side will run off of either tank, so the tank is good. Can the pigtail get clogged or one side of the regulator go bad? Flames on the stove look as they should
Hi Karen,
Hmmm… I’m not really sure about that. But I think it is possible. I’ve never encountered that problem before.
Thanks for reading the article.
This would be a good question to ask on the RV Forum called iRV2.com
I bet someone somewhere has had the same problem too.
Mike
If the pigtail looses that washer inside it it will not allow propane to flow
I’ve encountered the same problem. Try a little oil at the inlet of check valve it may be stuck. If that doesn’t work……Replace the pigtail . The check valve is bad.
Had the person at the propane filling station recommend me the above troubleshooting methods.
My propane stove or fridge both will only work if my key is turned on half way for accessories…??? how do i make it so i do not need to do that and it will work manually?? Class A winnebego 1997
Hi Shane,
That’s a tough one but it sounds like your appliances aren’t working off of the 12-volt house battery and are therefore running off of your battery that starts the RV engine…
Are you house batteries charged?
You could also go on iRV2.com and search for similar problems. There are some good threads there that could help.
I’m sure I wasn’t much help but please let me know what you find.
Thanks,
Mike
Symtom : No propane flow from stove all buners.
Troubleshooting
1. If Engaged propane bottel valve , then have study flow propane
2. If Disconnected the ouput of 2 stage regulator, then have study flow of propane.
Is this propane system troubleshooting indicating propane flow good to output of propane regulator and that system failure is down stream such as leakage or defective stove.
Should the propane water heater and or propane refrigerator then be checked for operation?
Thanks for sharing Malcom
My stove or burners won’t light also above my fridge the light said to check it. What could be wrong
Hi Christie,
Hmmm…you could be out of propane or you might need to turn off the propane at the tank – wait a minute – and then turn the propane back on very slowly.
Let me know how you make out.
Mike
Thanks so much for the great advise! I’m a full-timer in an RV Trailer and the propane has been out for months. I’ve been able to plug-in and run space heaters, but I thought I was in for a big expense. The slow twist method on the valve solved the problem and the stove lights now. Oddly, something not quite right with the heater now. Runs, heated briefly, then stopped. Also, yellow flames here and there on the stove so I may have a faulty regulator. Or perhaps a detector is bad supplying the heater. Any ideas where to find it on a Jayco Hummingbird?
Hi David,
I’m glad the slow twist method worked for you! I’m always happy when I can provide some useful info for my readers.
I checked the Jayco Hummingbird Manual and although it has a whole section about the CO2 sensor it doesn’t say where it is. But since Carbon Monoxide is heavier than air the sensor should be no higher than one foot off the floor. Sometimes they are located under the dinette.
Hope this helps!
Mike
Hello Mike, I have a 2004 Forest River georgetown 325SE, the furnace, water heater or the stove does not work. I have replaced the LP Detector, the solenoid, the regulator and the main hose. The fridge is working on battery power but nothing else is working. Any suggestions